FINALLY SETTING OFF ON 6 MAY  | |
| Cerys driving Printemps on left and Princesse (Taquine) on right with Jakki & Beth 6 May - : Set off from The Mas de Tourblanque, saying farewell to our riends in Gageron at base camp (electrics on wagon carrying Long Riders' Guild flag finally fixed so we're finally off ! |
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| Jakki's office, but N.B. Cerys' carriage.... |
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| And of course, White Horses about to set off (there are six in reality) |
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| Harry Engelen, our driver |
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| Our wonderful sponsors |
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| Camping at Gageron and riding or grazing practice |
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| La belle Camargue |
6/7 May: First night at the Mas de Mejanes, Domaine Paul Ricard - a big thank you to Eugene Guillot and his brother Xavier. Horses behaved well. Team also or more or less ! A lot of
the team watched the "sorting"of the bulls – not for the beginner or even average
rider - in this domain owned by Pernod Ricard which breeds bulls and horses and caters for the tourists.
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| 1st night at Mejanes - domaine Paul Ricard |
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Cerys being pushed in
a wheelbarrow by Maxime at Mejanes
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| Mejanes horses |
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| A wild boar (in captivity) at Mejanes |
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| Shetland ponies for children rides at Mejanes |
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| Pink flamingo |
7 May : La Maison du Cheval Camargue at the Mas de la Cure. Not far from the Saintes Maries de la Mer our horses and carriages make their way to the Mas de la Cure, home of the Maison du Cheval Camargue. Not the peaceful drive of yesterday – this time dangerous drivers, horns blowing overtake on bends or single white lines.
Lovely meeting Philippe Dijol and seeing Claire Sottiaux from the SNCF Foundation in the early evening.
Fred has now decided to take up his abode in the milk float to avoid the passage of the French and English grasshoppers and flies. No way of having a slice of brioche for brekkie without taking this preventative measure. We mean human grasshoppers and flies.
8th May : Day of Departure reception so kindly offered by Maison du Cheval Camargue
A drizzle greeted us for the 'departure' reception courtesy of La Maison du Cheval Camargue - a huge thank you to our friends who joined us there amongst some all the way from Brittany, Annie Barreteau and Annick Garrau. Also there were John and Zoe Pelling, Pierre de la Barre, Philippe and Muriel Dijol from the SNCF PACA region foundation and many other friends - our huge thanks to Georges and Josseline Vlassis for hosting the party. Should be in the Provence newspaper Thursday or Friday. The sun didn't shine, but it did in our hearts !
(Had to call in the vet just before the reception as a bit of kicking had gone on during the night and Rabiolot had to have a couple of stitches - we're separating the big horses from now on. We thought that all the grass that they had to munch after weeks of hay and luzerne would keep them quiet, but no! All well though).
On this big day for SLL in the presence of numerous people who came to the departure ceremony was the notable absence of the press apart from La Provence – sadly, probably due to the French presidential elections which took place on Sunday 6 May. Who are we who try to bring a little bit of joy to a few people with disabilities compared to the two spitting images of the two presidential candidates. The support of the media wouldn’t have hurt our charitable enterprise, but we know why we do what we do, so little matter ! However, the wonderful Georges Vlassis got us covered by two radio stations and thank you to La Provence newspaper. Merci Georges !
Beth with Thais, before it started to rain at the reception and we put the horses back in their fields
Mares and foals at La Maison du Cheval Camargue
9 May : Still at Mas de la Cure. Sun out - the high has finally arrived chasing the rain and wind away. Fred and Harry took Patrick (Moan) to Montpellier station to get back to Brittanyand then went to Promocash to stock up with food for the team. Horses resting quietly and munching away in the sunshine.
Peaceful day awaiting the real departure on the next day with for sole occupation cleaning of saddles and bridles and lazing around, apart from Fred known as ‘Bibi’ getting provisions of food in and Jakki on the computer in her ‘office’.
Evening spent by some cleaning the house we were loaned to stay in, and getting to know Patrice Dignac.
10th May : Cabane du Daladel at Patrick Fargier's
11th May: Cabaret des Dunes near Aigues Mortes
Have left the Camargue officially but on our arrival at Daniel & Florence Guillamon’s, the mosquitoes seemed to have come on ahead of us. Expression of the day ‘f......g mosquitoes’, punctuated by precise and violent blows on the predators. One has to, however, face the multitude of assailants and deal with the spottiness and itchiness which results. In this small hidden away spot, with everything handmade, we had the luxury of a spectacle Equestre of which Daniel & Florence are the organisers and actors along with a few others and of course their horses A son and lumiere of great quality in which andalousian dancing in beautiful costumes, post hongroise and dressage along with voltige. We even were treated to a bull fight where an artificial bull was trundled around in a wheelbarrow by a human- the dexterity of the riders and suppleness of the horses is magical.
Campsite was rudimentaary in a little wood Thank you Daniel and Florence for inviting us 'gratos' to see the show. Very hot. Maxime loved the voltige. Dancers, horses and a beautiful evening with a magical sunset. Brendan was rivetted and Chris, Nathan, Harry and Lindon seemed to enjoy it too.
12th May : Domaine de Fangouse near Lattes at Robert and Christine Michel’s. Very windy. Bad atmosphere between French & English. Accusations, threats, general mess. Something to do with tents this time - ugh ! Have to read riot act. Camp by the arena where the Michels who breed Camargue bulls hold courses Camarguaises – lovely, wizenedc, old chap with piercing blue eyes who works for the Michels, called Richard helps us.
Riding horses gallop along the Canal du Rhône a Sète and riders have a great day; this time, though, complaining of being hot. Patrice, our new carriage driver with Maxime as his groom (not forgetting Buddy) and Cerys and Jakki (along with the more annoying Nana) in the other carriage has a pretty nerve wracking drive along the busy road from Grau du Roi to Perols on the D62. Some idiotic, crazy and impatient drivers to put it mildly. Horses all well and arrive in mid-afternoon.
13th May Centre Equestre du Loup Blanc – perhaps named after the two white Alsatians that Virginie Maollet has who runs the riding school. She used to be at the Ranch des Salins with Valerie Albertelli and we remembered each other as we'd stayed there in 2005 and 2008. She says, like everybody, that times are tough. Expensive hay, bad weather, a familiar story. Terrible dust everywhere and getting into everything. We notice a horse with a sunken back - Virginie tells us that it belongs to someone else and that the reason for the sunken back is that the horse was ridden too young.
Let's just put the article that appeared in the Daily Telegraph today with the enormous help of Anna Tyzack whom we thank most deeply - thank you Anna !!
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14/May : Cournonterral Ferme Equestre de Tipijo - Wow !
Nice to see Mme Gros again. Campsite is pretty empty though it is a bank holiday weekend- bad weather puts people off Again riders have a long day, arriving late, but a beautiful ride up and down the unspoiled valleys of the Haut Languedoc. The weather has started to turn, rain and very cold. The Lac du Salagou is right by the campsite and the earth is copper red. Thousands of names are made up from small stones and carpet the hills. When the two carriages stop to rest the horses,on the way to Octon, we meet a chap, Richard Rus, a correspondent for the Midi Libre. He interviews us, takes pictures and all being well, we will be featured in the Midi Libre.
18 May : Camplong – next to church and cemetery
Harry succeeds in flattening the battery to Jakki’s car by charging his cool box overnight and mobile - she loses it with him! Sir had plugged in his personal cold box. One of the neighbours on the slope where we are has some spark plugs ! Lady Luck is still with us. Heath Robinson arrangements as usual for getting water to the horses. Our hosepipe is connected through the small cemetery down to the horses – Harry is getting more resourceful at attaching hosepipes - useful tip – cemeteries in France always have water. Ate the couscous from the night before that Patrice had made under Fred's instructions. Jonathan makes a carbonara which goes down well. Horses have to make do with grass a little bit meagre and their ‘granulés’. Beautiful drive through the Haut Languedoc from Octon. Rabiolot still trying to mount Natchave... what would a Friesian/Camargue look like. Riders took a wrong turning and don’t arrive till about 8.30 pm, pretty tired having done about 40 kms. but with the carriages being there first, water is out for the horses, their feed buckets prepared and dinner for the crew is ready.
We stay at the Ranch de la Vallée de la Mare and appalling rain storms which will go on for several days. Team stays at camp site next door with Jakki and Fred in their respective carriages in the mud, coal slurry from the mines above and general filth of the Ranch We become party to a local village feud going on between our two hosts : the campsite and Amor Nouri where the horses and carriages are. Seduisante, one of the Comtois in bad need of a farrier. Amor Nouri our host didn’t get the tractor out of the hangar in time for 9 am and the farriers Jakki had found prepared to come on a Sunday left abruptly after waiting five minutes despite being told that Amor was on his way. The Maire adjoint, M. Nougaret and his daughter Sophie give us a lot of help and support and also gave us one of the two nights at the campsite. Thank you so much to you both.M. Nougaret's daughter at Murat sur Vebre. Thanks to them, Emelyne Emanville, a young woman farrier came out to shoe Seduisante late at night. Fred ‘s carriage leaking so he didn’t sleep well. Filthy, filthy. Others all had shower. Jakki keeps trying to get connected to internet but no luck so writing this in advance in order to update blog. She gets wet in her carriage because condensation pours down on her. Team amazingly resilient. Arriving into St Gervais, Princesse & Printemps spooked a bit at a goose and guinea fowl farm – little do they know what dreadful fate awaits them when they are served up on plates. Printemps is holding his head to one side these last couple of days leaning in to Princesse which looks very uncomfortable for him, so Jakki rings Patrick Rebulard. He tells us to lengthen the coupling rein from Princesse to Printemps which Patrice did on Sunday 20th. Difficult to alter the length of the reins but fortunately we have a leather hole punch. We’ll see tomorrow if this makes a difference. Rain has stopped and nice smell coming from the ‘kitchen’ on the plancha as Patrice and Fred busy themselves.
21 May : Murat sur Vebre in the Musee de Battage (due to the rain)
A huge thank you to Lucien Cros (No 1) for allowing our dispirited,soaked and frozen team to camp in the Museum de Battage - a tractor museum !!
Inside the Museum or hangar,a huge hot air canon dries the team's sodden clothes and warms us up. Rita, one of the Comtois is shivering so much that we take her in to the Tractor Museum too for a couple of hours to warm her up, shovelling her shit into a bag. The irony of Horse Traction alongside dozens of motorized tractors certainly make a contrast. We eat at a long table and thank you again so much to Lucien Cros
(No 1) for lending us his association's kitchen with all its accoutrements - how good chips taste after a month's abstinence even if slightly overdone - but who's complaining ...
22 May : Pisciculture de Condax - Jonathan Mehal
A freezing and drenched ride or drive on the way to Condax where we had stayed in 2008. On the way there, one of the swingletrees falls off Cerys and Jakki's carriage. A near disaster is averted. No one on the road - Printemps makes to break away still attached to Princesse with the swingletree dangling behind him, but Cerys manages to hold the horses - Jakki jumps off and unharnesses the horses from each other with Printemps now facing the carriage. Fortunately, Patrice & Maxime (a frozen Maxime) are behind the girls. Maxime unhooks the shafts from the Swingletree, Cerys holds onto the horses with the reins from the carriage and Jakki untangles the coupling reins and pole straps. Thank you up there for being there !!! Cerys finds the screw which had come undone and Patrice screws the swingletree back into position. When the girls set off again, the horses seem unscarred by the experience. Jakki is extremely proud of Cerys. She has shown enormous skills of leadership, courage and calm. Jakki has a spare coat in her carriage and gives it to Maxime who like the 3 others is totally frozen and drenched but wearing next to nothing.
Lovely seeing Jonathan again up in his log cabin set up - now living separated from his wife, butit is he who is looking after his two young daughters. He offers us piping hot showers, there's a loo (ecological one) - more like a wooden throne actually and it's a wet, wet night accompanied by the screaming of the torrent running past the trout farm which Jonathan Mehal has. The horses are fenced off against the backdrop of the mountains and the torrent. Thank you so much Jonathan.
23/24 May : Le Salvan near Angles at Pierre Faugere's
How does one describe Pierre?
Jakki had first met him in 2005 and had, of course, remembered him. Bearded with a small pony tail and aquiline features, strangely enough when she rings him up to ask if we can stay with him, he tells her that he had dug up the letter she had written to thank him 3 days before - a letter written at the end of 2005. How's that for a coincidence and the letter is produced at dinner that night !
Well: Pierre, a 75 year old Colonel of the French Foreign Legion, Legion d'Honeeur, ex Saumur, from a family of Cavalry men since the 14th century is a living legend and was born more or less in the saddle and taught to ride by his grandfather and his life will no doubt end on horseback. A man who emanates natural and distinguished authority mixed with extreme kindness. He has 3 magnificent Andalusian stallions, his domain is enormous, the manor house dates back to the 15th century and authencity is rampant. He taught Mario Luraschi to ride. His elegance in the saddle, though now very ill, is remarkable. His extraordinary hawk like eyes eyes notice everything and the house is run by he and his grandson, Renaud, in military fashion - stone floors washed over twice a day, the inglenook fire kept burning with logs day and night,
We are all seduced to stay an extra night at Pierre's during the dinner he has prepared for us at his oak refectory table by the inglenook fireplace with two of his 7 dogs present. All of our team will never forget Pierre - he's the kind of person who makes an indelible impression on all who meet him. Would that there were more people like him !
May 25/26 Lucien Croz (No 2) Montredon Labessonie
Late departure from Pierre's at le Salvan because Printemps, the Cob Normand, was not well, off his food and lying down. A high temperature was read. Fortunately, Pierre had the necessary injections and medecine to give Printemps and we waited till his temperature came down before leaving. A very, very long ride/drive to Montredon ended unpredictably. The riders decided to stop off at about 8.30 pm at Lacrouzette where they'd found a lovely picnic stop in the Sidobre - an area of outstanding natural beauty with rounded granite formations of an extraordinary geological interest with only one other similar place in France which happens to be in Brittany at Huelgoat near Carhaix. They wouldn't make Montredon that night.
The carriages carry on. Tempers get very frayed by a certain member of the driving team... Cerys again demonstrate courage and resourcefulness and she and Jakki have the Dunkirk spirit. Our 2005 and 2008 friend, Lucien Croz (No 2) and Marie-Christine came to our rescue escorting and lighting the way for the leading carriage (Jakki & Cerys) to make Montredon late that night. Lucien had made coffee for the 'drivers' in a large thermos flask and brings croissants the next morning, despite having escorted Harry the driver, to take the riders' their sleeping bags, some food for the horses, food for the riders and all that they needed for the night. Thank you so much Lucien and Marie-Christine for all your help. Your help was more than invaluable. On top of all this, Lucien has a family baptism (a two day long affair) but still manages to organize a little reception at the office de Tourisme for us altogether with the Maire Adjoint on Saturday night despite having had only two hours sleep the night before. All well that end's well. Printemps's temperature was still down when we finally arrived and he had a day of much needed rest as did all the horses when the riders finally arrived the next day, though a certain person remains frosty.
Harry's parents came over and thank you to them for the food they brought. Also, it was lovely to meet Gill Nurse, from the Dordogne, whom we have met through Anglo Info and is offering to help us. Thank you so much Gill for coming to meet us and very much look forward to seeing you soon.
27/28 May : le Teillet - Maire Alain Assie - Terrain de sports
Emelyne Emanville, the farrier arrives Sunda
y late afternoon and starts shoeing the horses. She eats dinner with us late (enjoying Harry's mum's chocolate cake) and stays locally in a little auberge to be at the camp here by the terrain de sport at 6.30 am. All the horses are now shod and we decide not to move on today, but to go direct to Ambialet tomorrow and not stopping by Paulinet. It will actually save the horses about 33 kms.
A wise decision is taken by Fred that his young Friesian, Natchave, is not up to the trip due to her immaturity and exhaustion. She has been taken by van back to Pierre Faugere's who has kindly agreed to look after her, and from there we will arrange for her to get back to Fred's home in Brittany. The afternoon is spent by some by the Dadou river some 3kms away.
29 May: Ambialet - Camping Du Pont d'Ambialet
I repeat what has already been said ! Big Brother has nothing on us. We arrived at the campsite by the banks of the River Tarn. A leafy, peaceful glade, an oasis of peace run by an elderly couple who had been running the campsite since 1970. We had been to Ambialet in 2008 and this time, we had the luxury of showers and loos, though the writer had no time to shower. I will keep you all guessing as to what the drama of the evening - more will be revealed later - but suffice to say that all is for the best. We ended up having what must be one's millionth spaghetti bolognese (made not with spaghetti, but large macaroni), and how welcome that was !! Just for those who didn't know - the English were in Ambialet in the 15th Century. I never got as far as finding out who won that particular battle -
29 May to 1 June - Terrain at Le Garric offered by a combination of the local chapel, the local Maire and the very nice grandfather Raoul, son Thierry and grandson Paul (well he just happened to be there) Malgouyres. We have showers a couple of hundred yards away and loos, there is electricity, one is getting internet connexion and there is water. What luxury ! It's warm too. Riders got here safely having been plied with drinks, food and pleasantries on their ride here by a friend in need. Two carriages got here in good time.
Draft horses all have saddle sores and we have been dealing with these by disinfecting them, aloe vera gel and then vaseline to stop the flies getting onto the sores. It looks worse than it is, but the two days' rest here will do them a lot of good.
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| Article of the departure reception in La Provence (see our website if you want to read it) |
A drizzle greeted us for the 'departure' reception courtesy of La Maison du Cheval Camargue - a huge thank you to our friends who joined us there amongst some all the way from Brittany, Annie Barreteau and Annick Garrau. Also there were John and Zoe Pelling, Pierre de la Barre, Philippe and Muriel Dijol from the SNCF PACA region foundation and many other friends - our huge thanks to Georges and Josseline Vlassis for hosting the party. Should be in the Provence newspaper Thursday or Friday. The sun didn't shine, but it did in our hearts !
(Had to call in the vet just before the reception as a bit of kicking had gone on during the night and Rabiolot had to have a couple of stitches - we're separating the big horses from now on. We thought that all the grass that they had to munch after weeks of hay and luzerne would keep them quiet, but no! All well though).
On this big day for SLL in the presence of numerous people who came to the departure ceremony was the notable absence of the press apart from La Provence – sadly, probably due to the French presidential elections which took place on Sunday 6 May. Who are we who try to bring a little bit of joy to a few people with disabilities compared to the two spitting images of the two presidential candidates. The support of the media wouldn’t have hurt our charitable enterprise, but we know why we do what we do, so little matter ! However, the wonderful Georges Vlassis got us covered by two radio stations and thank you to La Provence newspaper. Merci Georges !
Other
events which finished the day was the arrival of Patrice our new carriage
driver that Patrick Moan brought down in Jakki’s cara. Verbal
violence coloured the meal for our two arrivals, English accusing the French of not helping ,
and vice versa. What infantile charm do these young adults have punctuated by words which would make a worst offender
sound like a choirboy. What happened on
the 8 May 1945 didn’t happen on this particular evening : no entente cordiale, more like a return to
the 100 years War. In any case, nothing
to scare Patrice, retired prison officer, who did honour to his dinner and
remained imperturbable as did Patrick.
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| Cerys with our Kate Mornet who with her mother helped us so, so much in Gageron . Thanks Kate and Chris! We miss you |
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| Maxime having a snooze with the luxury of a mattress at Mas de la Cure |
9 May : Still at Mas de la Cure. Sun out - the high has finally arrived chasing the rain and wind away. Fred and Harry took Patrick (Moan) to Montpellier station to get back to Brittanyand then went to Promocash to stock up with food for the team. Horses resting quietly and munching away in the sunshine.
Luke schooling Natchave, Fred's Friesian.
Peaceful day awaiting the real departure on the next day with for sole occupation cleaning of saddles and bridles and lazing around, apart from Fred known as ‘Bibi’ getting provisions of food in and Jakki on the computer in her ‘office’.
Evening spent by some cleaning the house we were loaned to stay in, and getting to know Patrice Dignac.
10th May : Cabane du Daladel at Patrick Fargier's
Fred’s
first ride after driving us to the Mas de la Cure in the 'milk float' or food wagon. He rides his horse Natchave for the first time
in the Camargue in company of six Camargues and riders. Riders and horses gauge each other with respect with the
shared fear of motors, horns.and even birds hiding in the re
Patrick, man of Camargue in a red shirt decorated with white bulls, hat screwed to his head,
The gait of a man who has spent years astride a horse, face weatherbeaten by the Camargue sun and with a cutting and accurate sense of humour. he organises rides for people to discover his world. However, today he is a bit bitter, because the neverending financial crisis and the result of the elections affect his livelihood, this small ranch on the edge of the road, where when one gazes away from the bitumen which borders it, pink flamingos spot with colour the green and blues of the surrounding foliage and marshes. Sadlyt, the tourists who come to feast their eyes are few and far between.
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| Pont de Sylvereal just before Cabane de Daladel |
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| Patrick Fargier's Cabane du Daladel |
Have left the Camargue officially but on our arrival at Daniel & Florence Guillamon’s, the mosquitoes seemed to have come on ahead of us. Expression of the day ‘f......g mosquitoes’, punctuated by precise and violent blows on the predators. One has to, however, face the multitude of assailants and deal with the spottiness and itchiness which results. In this small hidden away spot, with everything handmade, we had the luxury of a spectacle Equestre of which Daniel & Florence are the organisers and actors along with a few others and of course their horses A son and lumiere of great quality in which andalousian dancing in beautiful costumes, post hongroise and dressage along with voltige. We even were treated to a bull fight where an artificial bull was trundled around in a wheelbarrow by a human- the dexterity of the riders and suppleness of the horses is magical.
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Rudimentary living conditions where mosquitoes thrive at the Cabaret des Dunes at Aigues Mortes
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| Beth's rude awakening ! How rudimentary does it get? |
12th May : Domaine de Fangouse near Lattes at Robert and Christine Michel’s. Very windy. Bad atmosphere between French & English. Accusations, threats, general mess. Something to do with tents this time - ugh ! Have to read riot act. Camp by the arena where the Michels who breed Camargue bulls hold courses Camarguaises – lovely, wizenedc, old chap with piercing blue eyes who works for the Michels, called Richard helps us.
Riding horses gallop along the Canal du Rhône a Sète and riders have a great day; this time, though, complaining of being hot. Patrice, our new carriage driver with Maxime as his groom (not forgetting Buddy) and Cerys and Jakki (along with the more annoying Nana) in the other carriage has a pretty nerve wracking drive along the busy road from Grau du Roi to Perols on the D62. Some idiotic, crazy and impatient drivers to put it mildly. Horses all well and arrive in mid-afternoon.
Brendan leading the column
13th May Centre Equestre du Loup Blanc – perhaps named after the two white Alsatians that Virginie Maollet has who runs the riding school. She used to be at the Ranch des Salins with Valerie Albertelli and we remembered each other as we'd stayed there in 2005 and 2008. She says, like everybody, that times are tough. Expensive hay, bad weather, a familiar story. Terrible dust everywhere and getting into everything. We notice a horse with a sunken back - Virginie tells us that it belongs to someone else and that the reason for the sunken back is that the horse was ridden too young.
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| Fountains have their uses |
Let's just put the article that appeared in the Daily Telegraph today with the enormous help of Anna Tyzack whom we thank most deeply - thank you Anna !!
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14/May : Cournonterral Ferme Equestre de Tipijo - Wow !
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| Beth leading the column over the viaduct |
What a lot goes on at the Ferme Equestre du Tipjo - what a time it turns out to be! Fred and Jakki decide that for the sake of the
group, Nathan and Lindon have to go. Sadly, their aggressive behaviour and continual utterance of very violent threats are taken seriously this time. They are both a bit taken aback that we have booked them flights and that it is a
fait accompli but Harry drives the lads to
Montpellier airport. Chris goes along with
Harry to the airport to say his goodbyes to his Guisborough friends. We hope to see them in England on arrival as they are nice lads individually but unable to work in a group. While all this is going on, Brendan leaves of
his own accord. Big Brother has nothing on us ! Reinforcements are coming - new young people will be joining us. To add to the merriment, the Camargue horses decide to escape during the night - Luke, Chris, Maxime, Jonathan and Fred emerge sleepy eyed from their tents to round them up. Jakki overhears our hosts and their family in the middle of the night shouting during the chaos and saying that we had plugged our extension leads in to the electric fencing socket and disconnected it. To add to the merriment, the large tent which Beth, Luke, Maxime, Chris, Nathan and Lindon have been using breaks during the night due to the high, screaming winds and collapses on all of them giving a final gasp before the tent is jettisoned a day or so later. We did have the use of a loo of sorts.
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| Not for the carriages |
16 May :Les 3 Fontaines at Le Pouget
Another place where we had stayed before. Very expensive, 171 euros for our tents and horses, but at least there were showers, though not clean. Horses fenced off by a free strolling sheep and pig – who were both fortunately very friendly as the pig was extremely large. Harry gets bollocked for going on a little sightseeing jaunt - that's not what our driver is for - he's to be there for the riders and carriage drivers, just in case.. Jakki has her first shower in 8 days. The others are nearly as crassy - thank goodness for baby wipes.
Another place where we had stayed before. Very expensive, 171 euros for our tents and horses, but at least there were showers, though not clean. Horses fenced off by a free strolling sheep and pig – who were both fortunately very friendly as the pig was extremely large. Harry gets bollocked for going on a little sightseeing jaunt - that's not what our driver is for - he's to be there for the riders and carriage drivers, just in case.. Jakki has her first shower in 8 days. The others are nearly as crassy - thank goodness for baby wipes.
Beautiful
landscape on our way to the Pouget but a bit of a shake up for Patrice as his milk float/kitchen carriage lands up in a ditch along a narrow road bordered by plane trees. Luckily, he manages to get the
horses to pull themselves out of .the ditch and no damage is done. A huge lorry had slowed down on the narrow road, but when it gained speed again, the brake noise terrifies Rita. All's well that ends well and Rita now wears horse ear plugs.
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| The Lone Ranger rides again ! |
Nice to see Mme Gros again. Campsite is pretty empty though it is a bank holiday weekend- bad weather puts people off Again riders have a long day, arriving late, but a beautiful ride up and down the unspoiled valleys of the Haut Languedoc. The weather has started to turn, rain and very cold. The Lac du Salagou is right by the campsite and the earth is copper red. Thousands of names are made up from small stones and carpet the hills. When the two carriages stop to rest the horses,on the way to Octon, we meet a chap, Richard Rus, a correspondent for the Midi Libre. He interviews us, takes pictures and all being well, we will be featured in the Midi Libre.
18 May : Camplong – next to church and cemetery
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| Campsite by the church |
Harry succeeds in flattening the battery to Jakki’s car by charging his cool box overnight and mobile - she loses it with him! Sir had plugged in his personal cold box. One of the neighbours on the slope where we are has some spark plugs ! Lady Luck is still with us. Heath Robinson arrangements as usual for getting water to the horses. Our hosepipe is connected through the small cemetery down to the horses – Harry is getting more resourceful at attaching hosepipes - useful tip – cemeteries in France always have water. Ate the couscous from the night before that Patrice had made under Fred's instructions. Jonathan makes a carbonara which goes down well. Horses have to make do with grass a little bit meagre and their ‘granulés’. Beautiful drive through the Haut Languedoc from Octon. Rabiolot still trying to mount Natchave... what would a Friesian/Camargue look like. Riders took a wrong turning and don’t arrive till about 8.30 pm, pretty tired having done about 40 kms. but with the carriages being there first, water is out for the horses, their feed buckets prepared and dinner for the crew is ready.
19 et 20 May St Gervais sur Mare Ranch de la Vallée de la Mare
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| Our host, Amor Nouri |
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| Mud, coal slurry, rain and freezing weather |
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| Emelyne Emanville shoeing Seduisante late Sunday night |
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| Patrice recapturing his youth and singing in the rain |
We stay at the Ranch de la Vallée de la Mare and appalling rain storms which will go on for several days. Team stays at camp site next door with Jakki and Fred in their respective carriages in the mud, coal slurry from the mines above and general filth of the Ranch We become party to a local village feud going on between our two hosts : the campsite and Amor Nouri where the horses and carriages are. Seduisante, one of the Comtois in bad need of a farrier. Amor Nouri our host didn’t get the tractor out of the hangar in time for 9 am and the farriers Jakki had found prepared to come on a Sunday left abruptly after waiting five minutes despite being told that Amor was on his way. The Maire adjoint, M. Nougaret and his daughter Sophie give us a lot of help and support and also gave us one of the two nights at the campsite. Thank you so much to you both.M. Nougaret's daughter at Murat sur Vebre. Thanks to them, Emelyne Emanville, a young woman farrier came out to shoe Seduisante late at night. Fred ‘s carriage leaking so he didn’t sleep well. Filthy, filthy. Others all had shower. Jakki keeps trying to get connected to internet but no luck so writing this in advance in order to update blog. She gets wet in her carriage because condensation pours down on her. Team amazingly resilient. Arriving into St Gervais, Princesse & Printemps spooked a bit at a goose and guinea fowl farm – little do they know what dreadful fate awaits them when they are served up on plates. Printemps is holding his head to one side these last couple of days leaning in to Princesse which looks very uncomfortable for him, so Jakki rings Patrick Rebulard. He tells us to lengthen the coupling rein from Princesse to Printemps which Patrice did on Sunday 20th. Difficult to alter the length of the reins but fortunately we have a leather hole punch. We’ll see tomorrow if this makes a difference. Rain has stopped and nice smell coming from the ‘kitchen’ on the plancha as Patrice and Fred busy themselves.
21 May : Murat sur Vebre in the Musee de Battage (due to the rain)
A huge thank you to Lucien Cros (No 1) for allowing our dispirited,soaked and frozen team to camp in the Museum de Battage - a tractor museum !!
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| Eating the famous chips in the kitchen of the Tractor Museum |
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| Drying of clothes in Tractor Museum |
Inside the Museum or hangar,a huge hot air canon dries the team's sodden clothes and warms us up. Rita, one of the Comtois is shivering so much that we take her in to the Tractor Museum too for a couple of hours to warm her up, shovelling her shit into a bag. The irony of Horse Traction alongside dozens of motorized tractors certainly make a contrast. We eat at a long table and thank you again so much to Lucien Cros
(No 1) for lending us his association's kitchen with all its accoutrements - how good chips taste after a month's abstinence even if slightly overdone - but who's complaining ...
22 May : Pisciculture de Condax - Jonathan Mehal
A freezing and drenched ride or drive on the way to Condax where we had stayed in 2008. On the way there, one of the swingletrees falls off Cerys and Jakki's carriage. A near disaster is averted. No one on the road - Printemps makes to break away still attached to Princesse with the swingletree dangling behind him, but Cerys manages to hold the horses - Jakki jumps off and unharnesses the horses from each other with Printemps now facing the carriage. Fortunately, Patrice & Maxime (a frozen Maxime) are behind the girls. Maxime unhooks the shafts from the Swingletree, Cerys holds onto the horses with the reins from the carriage and Jakki untangles the coupling reins and pole straps. Thank you up there for being there !!! Cerys finds the screw which had come undone and Patrice screws the swingletree back into position. When the girls set off again, the horses seem unscarred by the experience. Jakki is extremely proud of Cerys. She has shown enormous skills of leadership, courage and calm. Jakki has a spare coat in her carriage and gives it to Maxime who like the 3 others is totally frozen and drenched but wearing next to nothing.
Lovely seeing Jonathan again up in his log cabin set up - now living separated from his wife, butit is he who is looking after his two young daughters. He offers us piping hot showers, there's a loo (ecological one) - more like a wooden throne actually and it's a wet, wet night accompanied by the screaming of the torrent running past the trout farm which Jonathan Mehal has. The horses are fenced off against the backdrop of the mountains and the torrent. Thank you so much Jonathan.
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| Up, up, up, up, up |
23/24 May : Le Salvan near Angles at Pierre Faugere's
How does one describe Pierre?
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| A living legend |
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| The incredible Pierre Faugeres |
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| Pierre and his grandson Renaud who is half blind - a lovely young man without bitterness |
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| Princesse, Cerys, Printemps and Jonathan in Pierre's hangar and stables |
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| Chris with one of Pierre's dogs in the team's living quarters |
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| Jonathan, who specialises in birds of prey, with a feathered friend |
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| Two little birds who had fallen out of their nest and were put back into it with a long ladder |
Jakki had first met him in 2005 and had, of course, remembered him. Bearded with a small pony tail and aquiline features, strangely enough when she rings him up to ask if we can stay with him, he tells her that he had dug up the letter she had written to thank him 3 days before - a letter written at the end of 2005. How's that for a coincidence and the letter is produced at dinner that night !
Well: Pierre, a 75 year old Colonel of the French Foreign Legion, Legion d'Honeeur, ex Saumur, from a family of Cavalry men since the 14th century is a living legend and was born more or less in the saddle and taught to ride by his grandfather and his life will no doubt end on horseback. A man who emanates natural and distinguished authority mixed with extreme kindness. He has 3 magnificent Andalusian stallions, his domain is enormous, the manor house dates back to the 15th century and authencity is rampant. He taught Mario Luraschi to ride. His elegance in the saddle, though now very ill, is remarkable. His extraordinary hawk like eyes eyes notice everything and the house is run by he and his grandson, Renaud, in military fashion - stone floors washed over twice a day, the inglenook fire kept burning with logs day and night,
We are all seduced to stay an extra night at Pierre's during the dinner he has prepared for us at his oak refectory table by the inglenook fireplace with two of his 7 dogs present. All of our team will never forget Pierre - he's the kind of person who makes an indelible impression on all who meet him. Would that there were more people like him !
May 25/26 Lucien Croz (No 2) Montredon Labessonie
Late departure from Pierre's at le Salvan because Printemps, the Cob Normand, was not well, off his food and lying down. A high temperature was read. Fortunately, Pierre had the necessary injections and medecine to give Printemps and we waited till his temperature came down before leaving. A very, very long ride/drive to Montredon ended unpredictably. The riders decided to stop off at about 8.30 pm at Lacrouzette where they'd found a lovely picnic stop in the Sidobre - an area of outstanding natural beauty with rounded granite formations of an extraordinary geological interest with only one other similar place in France which happens to be in Brittany at Huelgoat near Carhaix. They wouldn't make Montredon that night.
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| A rest for the riders |
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| The Sidobre |
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| And dinner, when Harry finally arrived |
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| Nightime shelter for the riders that night |
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| More geographical beauty |
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| Even the horses are amazed |
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| Virtually unspoiled landscape |
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| And, the weather's improved |
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| Just riding along |
Harry's parents came over and thank you to them for the food they brought. Also, it was lovely to meet Gill Nurse, from the Dordogne, whom we have met through Anglo Info and is offering to help us. Thank you so much Gill for coming to meet us and very much look forward to seeing you soon.
27/28 May : le Teillet - Maire Alain Assie - Terrain de sports
Emelyne Emanville, the farrier arrives Sunda
y late afternoon and starts shoeing the horses. She eats dinner with us late (enjoying Harry's mum's chocolate cake) and stays locally in a little auberge to be at the camp here by the terrain de sport at 6.30 am. All the horses are now shod and we decide not to move on today, but to go direct to Ambialet tomorrow and not stopping by Paulinet. It will actually save the horses about 33 kms.
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| Chris and Maxime with Natchave |
A wise decision is taken by Fred that his young Friesian, Natchave, is not up to the trip due to her immaturity and exhaustion. She has been taken by van back to Pierre Faugere's who has kindly agreed to look after her, and from there we will arrange for her to get back to Fred's home in Brittany. The afternoon is spent by some by the Dadou river some 3kms away.
29 May: Ambialet - Camping Du Pont d'Ambialet
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A peaceful entry into what was a story evening (at least at the beginning) |
I repeat what has already been said ! Big Brother has nothing on us. We arrived at the campsite by the banks of the River Tarn. A leafy, peaceful glade, an oasis of peace run by an elderly couple who had been running the campsite since 1970. We had been to Ambialet in 2008 and this time, we had the luxury of showers and loos, though the writer had no time to shower. I will keep you all guessing as to what the drama of the evening - more will be revealed later - but suffice to say that all is for the best. We ended up having what must be one's millionth spaghetti bolognese (made not with spaghetti, but large macaroni), and how welcome that was !! Just for those who didn't know - the English were in Ambialet in the 15th Century. I never got as far as finding out who won that particular battle -
29 May to 1 June - Terrain at Le Garric offered by a combination of the local chapel, the local Maire and the very nice grandfather Raoul, son Thierry and grandson Paul (well he just happened to be there) Malgouyres. We have showers a couple of hundred yards away and loos, there is electricity, one is getting internet connexion and there is water. What luxury ! It's warm too. Riders got here safely having been plied with drinks, food and pleasantries on their ride here by a friend in need. Two carriages got here in good time.
Draft horses all have saddle sores and we have been dealing with these by disinfecting them, aloe vera gel and then vaseline to stop the flies getting onto the sores. It looks worse than it is, but the two days' rest here will do them a lot of good.
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